Mastering the Art of Adjusting Bust Measurements in Dress Patterns

by liuqiyue

How to Alter Bust on Dress Pattern

When creating a dress pattern, it’s essential to ensure that it fits perfectly to your body. One of the most common alterations made to dress patterns is adjusting the bust size. Whether you’re dealing with a bust that’s too small or too large, altering the bust on a dress pattern is a straightforward process that can make a significant difference in the overall fit and comfort of your garment. In this article, we’ll guide you through the steps to alter the bust on a dress pattern, so you can create a custom fit that flatters your figure.

1. Determine the Bust Size Adjustment

The first step in altering the bust on a dress pattern is to decide how much you need to adjust. Measure your bust circumference and compare it to the pattern’s bust measurement. If your bust is smaller, you’ll need to add width to the pattern. If it’s larger, you’ll need to subtract width. The amount of adjustment will depend on your personal preference and the desired fit of the dress.

2. Transfer the Pattern to a New Sheet

Once you’ve determined the bust size adjustment, transfer the dress pattern to a new sheet of paper. This will ensure that you have a clean, unmarked copy to work with during the alteration process.

3. Add or Subtract Width to the Bust

With the pattern on a new sheet of paper, you can now add or subtract width to the bust area. To add width, draw a line parallel to the side seam, extending from the armhole to the hem. Then, add the desired amount of width to the bust area. To subtract width, draw a line parallel to the side seam, extending from the armhole to the hem, and then subtract the desired amount of width from the bust area.

4. Redraw the Armhole and Hem

After adding or subtracting width to the bust, redraw the armhole and hem to maintain the original shape of the dress. This step is crucial to ensure that the dress maintains its intended silhouette.

5. Adjust the Side Seam

Next, adjust the side seam to accommodate the new bust size. If you added width to the bust, the side seam will need to be spread out. If you subtracted width, the side seam will need to be brought in. Make sure to maintain the original angle of the side seam to maintain the dress’s shape.

6. Test the Pattern

Before cutting and sewing the dress, test the pattern on a fitting dummy or a friend to ensure that the bust adjustment is correct. Make any necessary adjustments to the pattern before proceeding with the construction of the dress.

By following these steps, you can successfully alter the bust on a dress pattern to achieve a perfect fit. Remember that practice makes perfect, so don’t be afraid to experiment with different adjustments until you find the ideal fit for your body. Happy sewing!

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